This view shows the mast top. I installed a sheave between the two straps for the back stay. This allows the mainsail to be hoisted further. The mainsail is attached to the line furthest from the mast. The extra line is the topping lift for the boom.
In addition to moving the mast crutch to the transom I installed a roller in the top so when the mast is slid forward or back it rolls smoothly. The roller is cut from a piece of 3/4 plywood cut with a hole saw.
This is a picture of the bow ladder that I made for getting on the boat when the bow is on the beach or going to a launching ramp that has no docks. The steps are deep because when you climb n it it swings into the boat. If the steps are shallow your feet get to close to the boatand it is hard to climb. The long rope goes around the rear pulpit post and to loops over the cleat. The short rope goes around the front pulpit post and also loops over the cleat.
The front hatch has a window added to it so more light will get below over the vberth. A square hole was cut in the hatch and a piece of lexan was screwed over the hole It is caulked with silicone.
The addition of clam cleats on the mast makes it much easier to get the halyards tight when hoisting sail. These are placed 6 feet from the baseof the mast. The halyards are cleated on the regular cleats also.
This is a view of the bracket I made for the outboard motor. the bracket is made of plywood and raises the motor 4 inches and moves the motor back 2 1/4 inches. This is enough so that I have full steering of the motor.
There are several changes that show i n this picture. You can see that the mast crutch is moved to the stern which allows full steering with the tiller. It doubles as a flag pole when in the water. You can see the wooden strips that are mounted 1/2 inch below seats. These hold the plywood panels that turn the cockpit into a queen size bed. You can see the Tiller Stay that I always use.
Link To Tiller Stay Web Site